The first sight of Dominica comes out a little buzz buzz plane window…she doesn’t fit in the frame, not even close.  Most of the Caribbean islands you fly over or land on are small enough to take a whole island picture of in one frame. Dominica is 29 miles long by 16 miles wide. She has many peaks that rise above 3000 ft. One of the first things you notice is she is green from the ocean to the clouds and above.

As you drive the busy thoroughfare to your hotel, cottage or jungle lodge it would be easy to miss some hidden splendors. You might focus on the shacks, tin huts, one room wood homes. This is a place of simple living and few luxuries by western eyes. Do not allow yourself to judge or get caught up in this sad stereotype. Depending on which small airport you arrive by, your first impression will vary. The main landing strip is far from the city, but gives you a cool, moist, fresh air introduction in a cross island tour of Dominica’s tropical rainforest’s. This is a 90 min ride which will likely give you time to decompress and ready yourself for the sensory shindig you are about to experience. Should you come by the Canefield Airstrip, then you are minutes away from Roseau the capital, you are surrounded by the industrial center all the way to a crowded french colonial capital. No matter where you stay, where you come into, this is an island of exploration, get out and see for yourself! Now…I suggest renting a car, there are hundreds of taxi vans it seems and fare is just a dollar or so, but they are crowded and work on an express system usually. A rental is best, but be sure to spend a few more bucks and get a small SUV. The pot holes can be epic in size and frequency. Just a note though, Driving on the let side of the road in a right side car where everything is swapped inside and out takes allot of mental awareness.

Now get checked in quick…do not eat at the hotel unless you are seconds from passing out. Get out and find the most conspicuous, simple, plywood shack on the roadside anywhere. You will recognize them by a beer banner, wall of rum bottles, and a pastry box with bright lamp on the counter. This is your culinary surprise of a lifetime. Usually there is no menu, it’s what they have that day, like going to grandmas house. Have the local fare, some fish or goat stew, trust me it will amaze the most picky palate, I know that’s me. If you are fortunate you will be strolling down the roads of town and happen by an old lady, colorfully dressed on the sidewalk. Here she is manning a simple little BBQ grill…this is your diamond in the rough moment, do not let it pass. Peek at the protein, usually chicken or ribs, you want that. There is no carnival, fair, or picnic snack that even compares to this sweet tropical tender grilled goodness. Usually you have the most choices on Friday nights. There are plenty of restaurants, again ask about local food, the kind momma makes for her hard working family and shares with the street. PS..Bakes are fried biscuits that make KFC biscuits unappealing. On that note there are only two western fast food chains, KFC and Subway. The locals love KFC to the tune of waiting in lines of bodies fifty strong, or car lines half the city long. You however are forbidden to be so lazy, and unexplorative as to even consider this…ever!

Culinary surprises…At breakfast you will likely be given a piece of fruit unsolicited, eat it! It’s good for you. You will also be offered juice, Dominica is exploding with fruits and veggies, the juice is of whatever is in fruit at the time. It was just squeezed and nothing was added, drink it! It’s good for you. Not to mention there are plenty of delicacies that will require the counter balance of healthy to the fried demons we enjoy. Be sure to ask what comes on your sandwich though, they love veggies and cucumber and tomato with eggs and bacon are the norm. Now, for a beverage at any meal, just one good choice…Rum Punch, it differs at every location, and is the family recipe. I don’t like Rum, but I love these rocket fuel concoctions. You could have the local beer, Kubuli, a light easy lager.

Some direct suggestions… Shacks first!, Sidewalk BBQ ! Then “Guayave” upstairs buffet, “Chef”, “Papillote”, “River Rock Cafe” at Trafalgar Falls. Don’t miss these on the around island travels too…”The Shacks” at Ross University just before Portsmouth, and “Iguanas” in Portsmouth. A must break from the scenic drive is Jungle Bay Resort Restaurant on the South West coast. That should get you started.

Ok, now that your salivating..a couple notes. When planning for Dominica…7 days is not enough and 10 will give you just enough to leave you begging for more. Not to mention in 10 days you will likely find yourself shopping for property! May I recommend the last week of October as your first choice to travel here. This is the week of Creole Fest, Reunion, and ends with the Independence Day Celebrations. This two weeks starting the last weekend of October every year is for locals to rejoice in their heritage, have family come back from afar, and celebrate their achievements as a free people. Dominicans are proudest to share this time and show visitors their island home up close and personal. Bring hiking shoes and Camel Backs.  Dive not more than half the time, its great, you will see amazing things, but that is half of the splendor.

I will conclude this installment, please read on as I categorize Dominica’s many appealing traits in the many articles to come.

Get out there!

Best Wishes

Troy